People in Kansas City have a favorite hobby: singing the virtues of Boulevard Brewing Company. They can’t help but tell you—repeatedly and without end—how wonderful Boulevard is. And, despite their tunnel vision, they stand on solid footing. We really enjoy Boulevard’s once-a-year releases. They’re tasty, innovative, and fun. Be warned, they can be elusive. These brews have a cult following around the Great Plains with people literally following delivery trucks and snatching up beer upon arrival. One offering stirs up a particular craze: Chocolate Ale. Made in collaboration with artesian chocolatier Christopher Elbow, finding a bottle in Kansas City is akin to finding a leprechaun’s gold. Admittedly, chocolate-flavored beer released just before Valentine’s Day sounds gimmicky. It seems like something—much like the “holiday” itself—that we self-respecting, enlightened gentleman should reject. Honestly, though, this is good beer. The cocoa flavor emerges...