The first time that we visited Palm Springs, California, we were skeptical. We exited the interstate and began the long, slow drive through the valley, passing golf course after golf course after golf course. We don’t golf. And it’s the desert. All the lush green seemed nonsensical and a bit extravagant. One evening, we went to a resort for dinner and sat on a patio overlooking a golf course. A sign sat on the table, which read, “Due to water shortages in California, tap water will be provided only upon demand.” Meanwhile, out of the golf course, the sprinklers were just getting going.
That was then. We’ve grown to adore Palm Springs, and we now make an annual pilgrimage. The sun. The pool. The cocktails. Fresh fruit: oranges, lemons and grapefruit. What really persuaded us, though, was our discovery of top-notch hiking. The mountains and foothills, which help make the Coachella Valley majestic, can be traversed on foot. Of course, Joshua Tree National Park sits about an hour’s drive away, but there’s much to be explored within a tighter radius. Here are a few of our best hikes near Palm Springs.
1. Indian Canyons
Our favorite hiking is within the Indian Canyons of Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. Why? Ecological opulence. It’s verdant and full of life. A real-life oasis in the desert. The area offers many hiking options of different lengths and skill levels. Palm Canyon Trail, four miles out-and-back, ranks as a must see, especially the start of the trail, where a gigantic cluster California fan palm trees form a canopied recreation area complete with picnic tables. We hike until we hit the intersection with Vandeventer Trail and then turn around. For variety, instead of circling back, we’ve also taken Vandeventer Trail to Fern Canyon Trail. That brings an increase in elevation and some scenic views and amounts to about six miles total.
We recommend hitting the Andreas Canyon Loop Trail. At only 1.2 miles, we consider it more of a nature trail than a hike. The trail follows a stream which has nourished what’s said to be the world’s second biggest oasis of California fan palm trees. Where the path begins circling back, a chain-link fence separates the reservation from the Andreas Club, a private club, consisting of 22 buildings constructed of stone on the canyon walls. We’ve yet to be invited as members.
Be advised that the reservation charges admission into Indian Canyons, $9 per adult, but it’s worth every penny.
2. McCallum Trail
The Coachella Valley Preserve, located on the east side of the valley and I-10, is a true gem. Not only does it offer an array of hikes, but those hikes come without charge. It takes a lot to find something free around Palm Springs.
McCallum Trail ranks as finest hike within the preserve. It’s an easy 1.7 miles, out and back, and can be combined with other trails for those seeking greater challenge. Beyond the parking lot and visitor’s center, the hike starts with Thousand Palms Oasis, which itself is a phenomenon to behold. After emerging from the massive, shady cluster of California fan palm trees, it continues through a stretch of sandy desert wash until it reaches the McCallum Oasis, loops around McCallum Pond, then returns to the visitor’s center. The still, mirrored waters of McCallum Pond resemble an alpine pool but with palms reflecting off the surface instead of pines. Be warned, though, that McCallum Pond is closed until October 2020.
During wildflower season, we recommend connecting from McCallum Trail to Moon Country Loop—4.1 miles in total. Like many desert hikes, we had a few difficulties following the trail on the Moon Country Loop, but we never felt lost.
Across the road from Thousand Palms Oasis, another cluster of trails emerge from a single trailhead. None of these rival McCallum Trail, but they supply variety, the spice of life. We enjoyed climbing onto the ridge, marked as the Pushawalla Palms trail, and beholding grand views of the Coachella Valley, Little San Bernardino Mountains, and San Gabriel Mountains.
FYI, the Coachella Valley Preserve closes on Mondays and Tuesdays.
3. Living Desert Wilderness Loop Trail
People rave about the Living Desert Wilderness Loop Trail. It has 4.8 stars on Alltrails.com. The hike begins within the Living Desert Zoo, treks through desert wash, hits some boulder scrambling, ascends Eisenhower Mountain, and loops back down to the zoo via switchbacks. About 5 miles altogether. There’s one drawback, and it’s a doozy. Hiking the trail requires admission to the zoo, which costs $24.95 per person. That price tag kept us away for years. This January, we said, “YOLO!” Okay, we didn’t say that, but we did fork over the cash.
The hike? We loved it. It provided needed exercise and scenic views across the Coachella Valley, including of Indian Wells, where we stay. The trail was lightly trafficked. Having run of it was the unintended byproduct of the steep fare. The other benefit was touring the zoo after the hike. It’s a beautiful, albeit limited, zoo with fantastic desert gardens showcasing plant-life from deserts across the globe.
4. Tahquitz Canyon
In addition to Indian Canyons, the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians also operate Tahquitz Canyon. We appreciate a hike with a reward at the midpoint, and Tahquitz Canyon delivers with a gushing waterfall. We haven’t located many waterfalls in the desert, so this place is special. Dip your toes in the frigid water. Take an afternoon nap amidst relaxing nature sounds. Eat a bologna sandwich to work up strength for the rest of the hike. Well, you can eat your sandwich, but you likely won’t need an energy boost. The whole hike is only 1.8 miles. That’s the big drawback of Tahquitz Canyon: it, unlike Indian Canyons, contains only one short trail yet costs $12.50 per person.
5. East Indio Hills Badlands
Climbing Eisenhower Mountain and gazing down at Indian Wells is what makes the Living Desert Wilderness Loop Trail extra pleasing. But if you’d prefer the exercise and elevation gain without the financial dent, try East Indio Hills Badlands on the opposite side of the Coachella Valley. The 5.3-mile jaunt goes from desert wash to gigantic granite boulders and slot canyons to hillside switchbacks and panoramic vistas. It’s a workout without much shade. Bring water and wear sunscreen.
Honorable Mention
Carrizo Canyon and Dead Indian Canyon deserve praise. They are located near the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument Visitor Center off the Pines to Palms Highway. Together, we might’ve ranked them fourth on our list, but the Bureau of Land Management closes them annually from January 1 until September 30 to protect the area’s big horn sheep. Most visitors to Palm Springs will miss these canyons. For those around in October, November or December, the canyons merit a visit. Carrizo Canyon is a 2.7-mile, out-and-back hike with canyon walls of swirling colors and a trickling waterfall.
Dead Indian Canyon is a 2.3-mile, out-and-back hike with a small but worthwhile oasis at the turn-around spot. To our great disappointment, we spied no bighorn sheep in either canyon. People say they see bighorn sheep frequently from these trails, so perhaps we need to invest in some binoculars, or glasses.
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